Resin Info & Tips for ArtWorks & Liquid Diamonds

Updated: Dec 12, 2020

Information overload ;) for working with resin, both ArtWorks & Liquid Diamonds.

This information is full of guidance and ideas for optimum results for users of ArtWorks Resin and Liquid Diamonds Casting Resin.

Copyright of Michele Donohue, ArtWorks Resin Canada. All rights reserved.

This document may only be shared via the link back to this blog post.

Personal Note: This information is updated and added to, as time permits. I have tried to condense a ton of information that I had previously taken notes on for myself to use as a resin artist over the past 4+ years, (from before I started my resin business), plus some I've learned since. I am sharing it with others who may find some benefit to it. Resin in general, can be finicky so having loads of helpful information to learn from, can also help customers be more knowledgeable for best results with our resin products. Nothing is set in stone, or the same for everyone, but extra knowledge of a product like resin does go a long way to helping with successful projects.

All resins are not the same. There are various limitations with any epoxy resin, and they each have their pros and cons, which is why some resin artists have different brands they use for different projects. Becoming more knowledgeable of a resins pros & cons, helps an artist learn best ways to work with them, or work around them. Resin art has a big learning curve and like any medium, they each take time and practice to master, but once you do, you can achieve the most incredibly rewarding and beautiful results with both ArtWorks Resin & Liquid Diamonds Casting Resin.

ArtWorks Resin is a high-quality epoxy resin formulated specifically for use in artwork. It has been formulated with extra UV protection and HALS for more added UV Resistance. It is also used widely on tumblers, tabletops, bar tops, counter surfaces, & trays and is excellent for doming. It cures in 8-12 hours. It has no VOC's, does not have a foul odour, it is scratch resistant, and cures very rigid and rock hard (does not remain in a pliable state after curing, or go soft in hot climate. It is a medium viscosity (thick like syrup) resin. ArtWorks Resin cures crystal clear like glass. It is FDA 21CFR175.300 compliant.

Liquid Diamonds Casting Resin is an amazing high-quality casting resin. It is crystal clear and cures within 24 hours in correct room temperature. Liquid Diamonds was designed for the crafting industry. Many customers state it is the best casting, embedding & jewelry resin. Ideal applications are for castings, moulds, jewelry making, pen turning, and a variety of other areas. Because this product has such a low viscosity, it allows for micro-bubbles to dissipate more easily. It has no harsh chemicals such as solvents or alcohols and is VOC free. Safe to use on foams and delicate pieces. This resin can be used for coating or encapsulating as well. Excellent for silicone moulds, woods, concrete, pebble floors, tiles and rock. It is FDA 21CFR175.300 compliant.

There are a large variety of different epoxy resins on the market for use in many different applications. Each resin has its unique features, pros & cons depending on what it is being used for. Some people like to use a variety of different resins for different purposes, and some prefer working with medium (thicker) or lower (thinner) viscosities depending on desired effects. For example, there are resins designed for art, some designed for casting, some designed specifically for kitchen countertops (higher heat tolerance), some designed for flooring, boats, etc. Every brand has different viscosities, cure rates, heat resistance ratings, work time, & more. Even in each category of resin, there are many types. There are deep pour casting resins made for projects like river tables, but even those need to be poured in layers (typically 2" depths), depending on volume required. People often may need to experiment with a few to find which works best for their intended use. For best results, use a resin that is designed for your specific types of projects.

There is also UV Resins, which is not the same as a UV rated resin. Some people get confused between them. A UV Resin is cured by using light (like the UV nail polish coatings). Epoxy resins with a UV rating, is not cured with light, it just means that it has UV inhibitors added to reduce yellowing and surface degradation from UV exposure. Some have more than others, but know that those additives may affect the resin in another area, including price.

Please review the helpful information & tips (as well as the safety information provided on website), prior to beginning working with resin.

Epoxy Resins

Epoxy resins consist of a base (bottle of resin) and a curing agent (bottle of hardener). The two components are mixed in a certain ratio (ArtWorks Resin is a 1:1 ratio measured by volume (not weight), and Liquid Diamonds is a 2:1 ratio that can be measured by weight or volume . A chemical reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exothermic reaction) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard plastic. Epoxy coatings are used because of their outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond strength. ALL resins will yellow over a period of time, however, ArtWorks Resin has been formulated to resist yellowing for a much longer period of time. Liquid Diamonds also has added UV inhibitors. It is not possible to determine how long it will take any cured resin brand to start becoming discoloured, as there are too many variables. Some of those variables are additives or substrates or items painted over substrate, overheating during work time, and where the art is being displayed. Resin art, much like most original art, should not be displayed in direct sunlight.

Prepare your work area:

Resin can be incredibly messy & sticky. For easier clean up afterwards, cover & protect your work area. Heavy gauge plastic can be reused, as resin once dried will peel off the plastic. Parchment paper (or the shiny side of freezer paper) can also be used under resin work surface for easy clean up. Laminating plastic does not melt or wrinkle as much as thinner plastic. Teflon sheet liners (used in baking) also can work well.

Some people like to mist their work area with water ahead of time, to bring down any dust in the air prior to starting with resin.

It's best to have all your supplies ready & near you before mixing the two parts together, so you don't waste work time (pot life) looking for things you need to use.

Have tweezers handy in case you need to pick out hair, dust or bugs (they seem attracted to resin).

Keep a roll of paper towels handy as well for quick wipe ups as needed.

Also, keep alcohol wipes (Clorox for example) handy for wiping resin off unwanted surfaces prior to it curing.

Work in a well-ventilated area, ideally with a good exhaust fan. Even though resin companies state non-toxic and no voc, we like to pre-warn that anyone can be sensitive or become sensitive when using any 2-part epoxies, regardless how safe their claims may be. More information on that in the safety page of our website.

Always wear disposable nitrile gloves and keep more handy while working. If you get resin on your clothing, it will likely not come off again. Wear old clothes with an apron, or painters full body coverup.

Always double check with a level, that your work area/substrate is level prior to starting a project.

Mixing containers & sticks:

Always use clean mixing containers & stir sticks (so nothing contaminates resin).

Silicone containers & mixing sticks are often preferred since they can be reused once wiped clean. But they must be clean!

Many people use wooden popsicle sticks or paint stir sticks, however, be aware it's possible wood may release air into resin during mixing, and cause additional bubbles to mix. Some people find using silicone or plastic stirring tools help reduce added air bubbles.

If you are using cups that do not have measurement markings, use a ruler and mark two containers at the same height in order to get an equal amount.

Some cups are not suited for mixing resin. Containers/cups with the #5 on the bottom, are made of polyethylene, and resin is much easier to remove from them, and they can be reused. Lowe's carries them in their paint department, and the smaller 2oz onesare available on Amazon.

Prepare yourself:

Secure hair & loose clothing out of the way so it doesn't land in your work. Resin is hard to remove from hair. Check clothing doesn't have hair or fuzz that can fall into resin (which causes more work & extra layers of resin). Wear lint free clothing. You can buy inexpensive painting suits that are lint free (we have them on our website too).

Remember have your box of nitrile gloves ready and other PPE (see resin safety tab for more detailed info on this).

Temperature of resin & room:

Temperature is extremely important with epoxy resins. Best results and transparency are achieved when temperature is ideal and with lower humidity. A lower temperature with high humidity or unequal mixing of the two parts may cause clouding of the resin. Higher temperatures may cause too fast a curing reaction for some resin art techniques.

Apply resin in correct room temperature 21C (70F) to 24C (75F), and temperature must remain consistent through curing process for best cure. Generally, all epoxies become too thick and cure too slowly to be applied at temperatures below 50 or 60 degrees F.

It is very important that epoxy is also at proper temperature (approx. 21 to 24 C / 70-76F) before mixing. Higher heat will expedite curing, causing pre-mature exothermic reaction, causing yellowing and will make it more brittle. Be aware that since heat accelerates curing, warming your resin can reduce working time by about 10 minutes.

If the epoxy is too cold, the molecules are too small to make a complete chemical reaction to make it an inert final product, which can leave chemicals not bonded (which is a potential for poisoning). Follow each manufacturer’s instructions to a T. ALL epoxy resins are chemicals, and all the controlled variables must be adhered to. Chemicals are sensitive. Each brand has their own formulation that can be thrown off if not used as directed.

You will know your resin is too cold when it's thick, hard to work with, and cloudy looking due to 1000's of teeny-tiny micro-bubbles which are harder to torch out. Cold resin will also take far longer to cure.

If resin is too cold, you can set the Part A-Resin bottle in warm water (upright in a bucket, or tub), or set on a heating blanket, until it's room temperature (before mixing two parts together). Ensure you completely & thoroughly dry off the exterior of the bottle from any water drops (water drops in resin will ruin the chemical process and cause curing issues).

Epoxy resins curing properly can often be affected by ambient temperature being off, or humidity levels. After most of the epoxies have cured, it can handle temperatures below zero degrees F.

Liquid Diamonds is very sensitive to moisture. Humidity plays an important role. The room should be under 50% humidity ( better if it's under 30%). If it is humid, get a dehumidifier or several containers of Damp Rid to put in the room.

Pro Tip: Using a digital thermometer to check the temperature of your room, aim it at the resin containers to check before pouring, & at the substrate will take the guessing out of it. Ensure all tools are at room temperature. Cold tools can shock your resin. Make sure your resin is at least room temperature.

Resin Mixing Instructions

Every resin brand will have different directions. Never assume because you’ve used one, they’re all the same. Some are similar, but they are not all the same, so do review each brands instructions prior to working on your project.

Our website has a resin calculator page to help determine rough amounts needed. The first calculator on the page is for ArtWorks Resin (top coating projects), just enter the dimensions of the piece. The second calculator on the page is for Liquid Diamonds (casting projects in different shapes). The third section shows rough amounts suggested for tumbler makers.


Use a 1:1 ratio of resin to hardener. Measure equal parts of resin and hardener into a mixing cup.

ArtWorks Resin should be measured by volume. (For an example, if you need a total of 2 oz, you would mix 1 oz of Part A plus 1 oz of Part B)

In round countainer, pour hardener (Part B) in to mixing cup, then resin (Part A ) into hardener in cup. Mix thoroughly but gently for 4 minutes. Stir gently, be sure to occasionally scrape along sides & bottom of container as well. A plastic or silicone mixing tool works great for stirring the resin. It's very important that epoxy is at proper temperature (approx 72-78 degrees F) before mixing. If the epoxy is too cold the molecules are too small to make a complete chemical reaction to make it an inert final product, and you will notice many more bubbles. If you have mixed for 4 minutes, but still see striations (like strings), than you can mix a little longer until there are no more striations. More details to follow below


In a round mixing cup, mix 2:1 ratio by weight or by volume (for example 10 ml of hardener to 20 ml of resin). Measuring Liquid Diamonds by weight is considered to be more accurate, but volume works well too. A simple kitchen scale will work for weighing purposes.

Always pour resin (part a) into hardener (part b), & stir well but gently, for 3 to 5 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of cup. Stirring slowly helps to reduce & avoid air bubbles. It is very important that it is properly mixed. (Some people like to pour this mix into a new empty clean cup, then stir mixed resin for another 3 minutes to ensure it's thoroughly mixed. Although we have not found that to be necessary.) Instead of pouring into another cup, alternatively, we suggest you can let it stand in the initial mixed container for up to 5-10 minutes to degas & allow any bubbles to rise to the surface. If there are a few bubbles, a light pass over with a heat source will pop them. Suggested minimum per mix is at least 15 ml. Using plastic or silicone stirring tool also can help prevent bubbles (that a wood stir stick might add).

When pouring your resin into your application, try and pour as close to your pieces as possible. Pour in a linear line, so that resin flows from the front of your piece, to the back. These techniques help to avoid bubble entrapment.

With Liquid Diamonds , to dome, glaze or make colour swirls in blanks, allow mixture to set several more minutes for a thicker honey-like consistency. This is a slow cure resin and it can take 45 mins to 1 hour to get that consistency. If your piece will be turned on a lathe, please wait 24 to 48 hours to turn.

If you have never used a 2:1 resin, just remember to use twice the amount of resin as hardener.

Check out our handy resin calculator page (there are 2 calculator options) on the website, to get an estimate of how much total resin is needed for your project. Another way to see how much resin you may need, is to fill your mould with water, then dump it into a measuring cup. Or use a measuring cup to fill your mould to see how much is used. Then dry mould thoroughly as even a tiny bit of moisture will ruin the cure.

If resin appears cloudy, & your mix is correct, it is likely too cold.

Adding Colourants: Important Note:

If you are adding colourants to your resin, the general rule of thumb is to start with about 3% colourant ratio to resin, and only add more if needed, (you can check opacity on your stir stick), but never exceeding 10% colourant to resin ratio. Glitters do not colour the resin, so are the exception to that ratio rule, (however be aware that it does affect the chemical balance, and can reduce pot life). Once colours or glitters are added to your mixed epoxy, do not allow it to sit in the cups as the cure process will be sped up by these additions.

With ArtWorks Resin medium viscosity being thick, it will need to be used shortly after mixing.

Since Liquid Diamonds low viscosity is like water, you may want to let it sit in cup, until it gets to a honey like consistency before you add glitter or it will sink to the bottom of the layer your working on. That can mean resin needs to sit about 45 minutes to an hour depending on your environment, before adding the glitter. You do need to keep an eye on it.

When you mix your resin, & it’s a large amount, pour it into several different cups. This is because the more resin you have in one cup, The faster it generates heat, which means the faster it cures. Also wait to mix in your paints or pigments until right before you are going to pour that color. I used to add all of my paints and pigments to all my cups at the beginning, but I kept having cups of resin cure on me too quickly, and this is because different paints and pigments can cause resin to cure even faster. So when possible wait to add colourant until right before you're going to pour it. but have your colours handy & ready to go As needed.

Premature Exotherm

Note, adding anything in to epoxy resin, does affect the pot life (work time) of epoxy resins. However, just keep watch on any & all cups it's mixed in, if it's starting to warm up, it needs to be used ASAP. If it is not used quickly, and an uncontrolled (or premature) exothermic reaction has begun in the cup, it will overheat and get extremely hot in your cup. When this occurs the resin will quickly yellow from overheating/ burning, and will no longer be able to be used. Epoxy resin heating out of control can foam, smoke, give off dangerous vapors and generate enough heat to melt its container or cause nearby items to catch fire. If this occurs, , safely remove the overheating cup on to a fire-proof surface (a metal tray or concrete) outdoors. Once cooled, you can dispose of it. To avoid this issue, it is always advised to get your mixed resin on to the substrate as soon as possible. When it is applied in correct amounts for the circumstances, it does not build heat, so the temperature through the thickness of epoxy stays close to the ambient temperature of the room.

Work Time/Pot Life:

After the two epoxy parts (resin mixed into hardener) are combined, there is a working time (pot life), during which the epoxy can be applied or used. Generally the pot life will be anywhere from minutes to one hour or longer depending on the product specs. At the end of the pot life, the mixture becomes very warm (or even dangerously hot), and when past its pot life, it quickly begins to harden & yellow from overheating (pre-mature exothermic reaction) that occurs while still in cup.

ArtWorks Resin has a pot life of about 30 to 40 minutes.

Liquid Diamonds Casting Resin has a pot life of about 45 - 60 minutes at 150 grams. Low exotherm (heat) applied to your pieces.

In theory, a temperature change of 18 degrees F, will double or half the pot life and cure time of an epoxy. Higher temperatures will lower the viscosity (thin) the epoxy, but also reduce the working time a person has to apply the epoxy. Spreading out the epoxy once mixed, instead of leaving it concentrated in mixing cup or container, will help the potlife (work time).

Pouring Mixed Resin:

​Once your resin is mixed pour onto the surface as soon as possible. If working on a panel, and just clear, pour most of it in the center and a slight line around all the edges, about 1/4” in. The majority in the centre should cover about 65% of the panel. This is enough to spread over the entire surface (unless there are porous areas).

Using a gloved (nitrile only) hand, or spreading trowel or other tool, pull the resin out to the edges, and all around. Resin has a surface tension and it will stop where it is pulled as long as too much resin has not been poured. Thicker resins (like ArtWorks Resin ) will not run over the sides as easily as the thinner resins (like Liquid Diamonds ).

If enough resin has not been made and you need more, there may be clouding or a ridge where the two meet. If this occurs, use your hand in a nitrile glove and attempt to mix the resin more completely on the surface. The resin may need to be warmed with a torch if it has already passed initial curing time (30-50 minutes dependent on resin).

Top coating:

Any item getting a layer of resin, should be very clean and dry. If your surface is very shiny/polished, it may require a light sanding to get a better bond. Some manufacturers recommend sanding in between layers if more than 24 hours passed between layers, however I have never done that (with either ArtWorks Resin or Liquid Diamonds or other resins I’ve used), and never had any delaminating occur. It is very important surface is cleaned of any oils from fingers or other contaminants that could affect final finish & cure.

If you are top coating your acrylic painting with any epoxy resin, it is important to allow your acrylic art layer to cure completely before coating with resin. Many acrylic art pieces with only a thin coat can take up to a full week to cure, many other pieces with thicker or textured paint layers, or medium or heavy body of acrylics, and especially acrylic pours, can take over 2 - 3 weeks to cure all the way through. Dry to the touch, does not necessarily mean it's cured all the way through. If any resin is applied before acrylics are completely cured all the way through, the moisture from the uncured acrylic will effect the curing of the resin negatively, and a nice topcoat will not be achievable. The same applies to anything being used prior to resin topcoat, everything must be fully dried and have zero moisture content.

If it is an acrylic pour with silicone added, ensure you’ve thoroughly cleaned all silicone off painting prior to applying the resin. Silicone and resin repel each other. Gently dry wipe off any silicone residue (it may not be visible) on surface with a soft cloth (t-shirt or microfiber or other soft material). Then using another soft clean cloth use a mixture of Dawn dish soap or other cleaners to clean really well. Then it must be dried thoroughly before applying resin. Some famous acrylic pour artists will actually apply a clear gel varnish coat (or clear sealer with varnish) at this point, prior to putting the resin top-coat on, to ensure a solid coverage over their acrylic pour. Golden and Liquitex both make good artist quality products for that purpose.

If an adhesive has been used to adhere materials to a board, it must be cured and fully dry before applying resin. If it’s not, bubbles can rise to the surface though the wet resin. Those bubbles are not ordinary resin bubbles, and will not likely be as easy to remove.

Some items will go transparent or translucent under resin if not sealed first. There are good artist quality mediums (by Golden & Liquitex) that can be used to seal those items. Another option is to laminate them prior to resin application. Some papers, leaves, feathers, photos, copies, etc. may need a sealer protective coating, so do a bit of research on it if uncertain.

Recoat / Flood Coat:

The best time to recoat many epoxies is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because some epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond. Due to ArtWorks Resin being a faster curing resin, it can be recoated about 4 hours after initial coat. It is not necessary to sand between coats unless something on the finish requires it. If sanding is necessary wait 24 hours or more, for ease of sanding.

Resin Coated Sides or UnCoated/Clean Sides

Some people prefer no resin on their sides. We often refer to that as clean sides on their resin artwork. Some prefer the resin to flow over the sides, and carry the art design over the panel sides.

For both types of sides, always tape off the bottom of your panel/canvas in advance, for easier removal of resin drips. I use good quality 3M blue painters tape or green Frog tape. If you want clean sides, also add tape to the panel/canvas sides. Be sure to burnish the tape to the board for best bond.

For best coverage over the sides, it helps to have the edge rounded slightly so it can roll over the sides nicely, so a wood panel can be sanded slightly on that top corner edge if it's too sharp an edge. Many artists like to tape the sides a bit higher then the tops edge, then once they're done working with the resin, they will pull the tape off the sides, so the resin can flow over & coat the sides. This may not be suitable for certain designs however, in case the resin pools up at the tape, it may change your design lines. When I'm creating something specific, like a landscape or sunset, I do not use the higher taped edge. You might need to add a bit to areas that are missed on the sides. If your catch surface under neath is clean, you can pick some of the resin up from there (with similar colours), and add it to the spots where resin didn't cover on the sides. Or you can pull some out of the mix cups to add. Or use your heat gun or blow dryer to blow it a bit more over the edge, then take your gloved finger and help it.

Removal of the tape once resin is cured, is easier when using a heat gun (or blow dryer on hot), to loosen the tape adhesive as you go along. Also keep a utility razor sharp knife hand to carefully slice certain spots as needed.

Torching/heating to remove bubbles:

After spreading epoxy on surface, if there are bubbles, pass a heat source (butane or propane torch) carefully over project using short quick passes. Ensure the flame doesn't touch the resin. Product will self-level (your surface must be pre-levelled). Be careful not to over torch your resin. Keep the heat source moving, because if you leave it in one spot too long, you may over-heat the resin, which can cause fish eyes, or film or other curing issues.

Heat guns are not really suitable for getting rid of bubbles, since they do not degas resin. The flame from a torch sucks the oxygen (degases bubbles) from the resin, holding flame about 20 cm above resin. A heat gun often boils the resin (will release bubbles, but remember resin heats itself to cure, & the heat gun basically cooks it), which weakens curing. It is best not to overheat the resin for a flawless finish. Heat guns are often used to achieve certain effects, (artists are known to push the limits of numerous art supplies), & it can work, but know your heat limits or you can easily singe the resin. There are numerous tools that can be used to get effects. But if you do accidentally overheat or over work your resin, the finish will not be as glass like as it could be, so a flood-coat / dome-coat/ top-coat is typically what resin artists will end up doing.

Small butane (chef’s torches) often have a pointy flame. Keep it a few inches from the surface and move continuously over the entire piece.

If working on larger pieces, a propane torch is ideal. We put a wide flame tip on ours and noticed a much nicer end result when working on larger pieces.

Have a careful peak at your piece (check every 15 minutes or so for first hour), to see if there are any bubbles, hairs, fuzz, lint or flies in your piece. A straight pin, toothpick or tweezers can be used to remove anything in the piece. You may need to do a quick pass of the torch to get resin to self level in that spot again. Any flaws can typically be fixed in first hour and a bit.

If trying to avoid heat, and working on a small project, blowing through a straw can remove bubbles too. But be careful as moisture going through straw can accumulate, and moisture is not friends with resin. Also, if doing this, your respirator is not on, so be sure there is adequate ventilation.

Some artists will suggest and swear by using isopropyl alcohol, in a fine spray mist, to pop bubbles instead of heat. However, just be aware many resin manufacturers do not recommend that, as alcohol might affect the cure negatively, and it can break down the Epoxy where it contacts. If you choose to spray alcohol, it is at your own risk, and be aware that it "could" produce an undesireable cure finish.

If using resin in moulds, please see separate blog post about mould care and use, to help prolong mould life.

Heating/speed curing in any resin: Heat will expedite curing (but not necessarily in a good way), unnecessary yellowing can occur and brittleness are often results of speed curing.

Speed/fast curing (using a heat lamp, space heater, etc.), will make epoxy more brittle and cause pre mature yellowing. It's best to just keep your room at a consistent temperature that is between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit for it to work as intended. Even use caution when using heat to get rid of bubbles. Suggestion is quick, short passes only as the yellowing can start happening while it is still wet if too much heat is applied with any resin.

Heat Resistance/Tolerance:

Both ArtWorks Resin and Liquid Diamonds Resin have a similar heat resistance to Formica & laminate countertops.

After curing, some types of epoxies will remain pliable, & begin to soften at about 140 degrees F, but will reharden when the temperature is reduced. For common epoxies this temperature is approximate upper end of their working temperature range. Special high temperature epoxies do exist for projects requiring higher heat.

ArtWorks Resin has a heat resistance rating up to 266F (130C), and Liquid Diamonds has a heat resistance up to 248F (120C). Coffee or boiling hot tea cups can reach up to 180F (82C).

ArtWorks Resin and Liquid Diamonds Resin, do not remain pliable after cure. They are both hard curing resins. They both can work for coasters and trays. Remember, although ArtWorks Resin Resin cures to the touch in 8-12 hours, and Liquid Diamonds cures in about 24 hours, most resins recommended to give a minimum of 3-4 weeks to reach maximum heat resistance . Resins typically continue to harden after initial cure for up to a month.

***Also note: Regarding resin manufacturers ratings about the heat resistance, it generally refers to “indirect heat”, not direct heat. So for example, leaving a tumbler in a hot car that reaches 250 degrees F, the tumbler would be fine.  But if you put a hot skillet that is 250  degrees directly on a counter or coaster made with ArtWorks, it could leave marks.

It is best to test resins out for applications needed by each user. Ocasionally there are circumstances (unknown to us) where it works great for many users, but not for another. There are too many factors that can come in to play with resins, to know why a different user may have a different experience than the majority of others. Sometimes different surfaces (like ceramics) can retain more heat, and some coffee cups as well. Different coatings under the resin can affect resins as well, as any additives or finishes applied.

Protect project while curing:

When possible, close door to work area or tent/cover your finished work during cure phase to prevent dust, hair, bugs, etc from landing on curing project. Try to let project sit undisturbed during curing phase, so as not to stir up dust that could land on your piece.

Remember, overheating, overworking, dust, or not using enough resin can potentially cause divots or other undesirable finish in the cure of any epoxy.

Plastic bins/totes are popular to use on smaller items. Cardboard might have dust or small particles that can fall into your piece, and if project touches cardboard it can stick to it, whereas if it touches the plastic bin, it can be peeled away.


Different epoxy resins have different cure times.

ArtWorks Resin Resin has a fast cure of 6-12 hours depending on temperature, environment & products mixed in resin.

Liquid Diamonds Casting Resin, has a cure time of

Resins do continue to harden for up to a month after initial cure at which time their maximum heat resistance performance will also be reached.

Liquid Diamonds is a slow setting casting resin (cures within 24 hours @ room temperature of 78F). Pieces cured after 24 hours (1/4" sample) will exhibit very hard finishes (D-78). Liquid Diamonds cures to demold time in about 16-24 hours (depending on variety of factors), and fully cured/machinable by 48 hours

Generally epoxies harden in minutes or hours (depending on usage it's designed for), but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded (if needed). Higher humidity can cause some resins to cure faster, colder temps can cause slower cure. If it's too cold, it can also cause dimples in the cured piece. If temperature fluctuates during cure time, or air flow (air conditioning, fans heat ducts) disturbs curing resin, it can cause fish eyes and divots or wrinkles in resin.

Because ArtWorks Resin Resin is a faster curing resin (cures in 8 - 10 hours), the larger the batch mixed, the work time will be reduced accordingly (due to exothermic reaction). If making a larger batch it's best to move very quickly, or break it down into smaller batches (or a much wider container), otherwise the resin can begin to gel, and get very hot in mixing container & start getting hard in cup/mixing container. If any resin overheats during active pot life (work time), this premature heat process could also potentially cause resin to prematurely yellow.

Larger mixes will cure faster, and smaller mixes will cure slower. If your mixed resin starts to get warm in your cup, apply to your application quicker and/or mix smaller batches at one time. Warmer weather & temperature will accelerate cure and colder weather & temperature will slow the cure time.

Be aware cure times will vary depending on mass and temperatures.

When working with castings resins (including Liquid Diamonds ), remember, Large resin castings will cure very quickly, where as small resin castings may take longer than normal to fully cure.

With Liquid Diamonds , a Full cure at a 30 gram (2-3oz) mass is roughly 16-24 hours based on room temperature of 77F. For small castings and thin coats, full cure is typically 24 hours.

Any sanding or polishing of cured pieces should be done after fully cured (no tackiness) 24- 48 hours.

Wood Cradled panels, Canvases, Substrates for resin art:

Ideally when creating resin art, wood panels are preferred. A hard substrate is preferable to a flexible one such as canvas when using resin.

If you’re piece happens to be a canvas, you will need to support the back so it doesn’t dip, sag and pool in the middle from the weight of the resin. You can support the back with a variety of things, some use cardboard, poster board, foam core or other items that will keep it flat and firm to support the weight evenly and keep level.

You can buy painters pyramids online or at hardware & paint stores to elevate your panels. Some people use recycled washed yogurt or apple sauce containers or solo cups, or paper dixie cups to elevate their substrate. Just be sure the resin can not reach it, or it may stick to your subtrate. And double check that the piece is level once it’s elevated.

Moulds/casting, pouring depth/thickness:

It's not recommended to do any more then a 1/4" thick pour maximum, in one session with ArtWorks Resin Resin. ArtWorks Resin Resin is not a casting resin. If using in petri dishes or other silicone moulds, for example, better results could be achieved by pouring about 1/8" thick, then pop bubbles, then add more if desired & pop bubbles, but no higher then 1/4" until after it's mostly cured. You can add more layers after about 3 1/2 to 4 hours, if keeping it under the 1/8" to 1/4" depth per pour.

Liquid Diamonds when used correctly is amazing. However it is sensitive. Different customers in different weather belts around the world experience different demould times. Some areas state they can demould around 12 to 14 hours, however item won't be fully hard for about 24 hours. Make sure to keep item on a very flat surface so as not to add wrinkles, marks or fingerprints.

Some customers state they require a full 24 hours, and can check at 18 hours, but prefer to wait the full 24 hours, to have a non bendy piece. Liquid Diamonds does take longer to cure (then ArtWorks Resin resin for example), but the results of allowing it to cure thoroughly are worth the wait.

Bigger pieces like coasters will cure faster than smaller pieces. Higher temperatures will decrease cure time, and colder rooms will make cure take much longer, or if too cold, incomplete.

It's not fun to ruin a piece from demoulding too quickly, so best to wait. It takes time to figure out each persons perfect cure time, due to so many factors. Environment, temperature, humidity, depth of pour, volume of pour, shape of mould, if colourants are used, and adding embellishments, especially organics (flowers, leaves etc). Sphere shaped moulds hold the heat in more, so may need to be poured in shallower layers.

Larger mixes will cure faster, and smaller mixes will cure slower. If your mixed resin starts to get warm in your cup, apply to your application quicker and/or mix smaller batches at one time. Warmer weather & temperature will accelerate cure and colder weather & temperature will slow the cure time.

Be aware cure times will vary depending on mass and temperatures. Large castings will cure very quickly, where as small castings may take longer than normal to fully cure.

Full cure at a 30 gram (2-3oz) mass is roughly 16-24 hours based on room temperature of 77F. For small castings and thin coats, full cure is typically 24 hours. Any sanding or polishing of cured piece should be done after fully cured 24-48 hours.

Items won't be fully hard for about 24 hours. Make sure to keep item on a very flat surface so as not to add wrinkles, marks or fingerprints.

Some customers state they require a full 24 hours, and can check at 18 hours, but prefer to wait the full 24 hours, to have a non bendy piece. Liquid Diamonds does take longer to cure (then ArtWorks Resin resin for example), but the results of allowing it to cure thoroughly are worth the wait.

Bigger pieces like coasters will cure faster than smaller pieces. Higher temperatures will decrease cure time, and colder rooms will make cure take much longer, or if too cold, incomplete.

Please also see my separate Blog post about mould care and use.


Maximum depth, is a very tricky subject. There is not one answer to this question that suits every project. It depends on many factors involved in said project. Again, environment, temperature, humidity, volume of pour, shape of mould, colourants and any embellishments added. This is something that it takes time & experience to learn what is best in your environment. If it's a completely open surface area, you might be able to pour in 2" depths. We have heard people to successfully pour Liquid Diamonds in 6" depths without a pressure pot, however I do NOT recommend this due to chance of overheating and burning the resin. Leave those experiences to very experienced resin users. If there's added embellishments such as organics (flowers, etc), I would recommend starting with 1/2" maxiumum depth in open mould pours. If you're using a mould that is rounded and more sphere shaped (which holds the heat in), and if adding organics, I would pour in 1/4" or so max depth layers. As you gain experience with the resin, you may find you can increase the depth.


Doming, is when you apply a thin layer of clear resin on the surface to restore the shine and smooth things out if needed. Although both Liquid Diamonds or ArtWorks Resin can be used for doming, ArtWorks Resin domes very nicely due to the thicker viscosity.

Some people brush the resin on but that can leave streaks. If you apply heat it it might level out. Some people pour the resin on, and then use a popsicle stick or silicone tool to push the resin, just up to the edge. and then carefully pour a little more resin, till its slightly domed. This should achieve a nice smooth uniform finish.

Sanding, Buffing and Polishing,

You can use a wet/dry sandpaper (use it wet with a tiny amount of dish soap) in course grit, down to the finest grit you can get. Then use a polishing compound to buff and shine the resin back to a glassy finish.

There are many types of polishing compounds. One l've seen mentioned is called Blue Jewellers polish compound, often used on resin jewellry. Also have heard Fabulustre is good. Some people use vehicle headlight polish on their castings. Another one mentioned to give a lovely finish on resin jewellry is a piano polish. There is one called Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish may pen makers use. There is another kit called Novus 1, 2, 3. Different users have different preferences. Some artists find a polish paste works better then a polish liquid.

Liquid Diamonds and ArtWorks Resin resin are both hard curing resins. If you're using a resin that can be dented with a fingernail, or softens with body heat or in a warmer temperature, it is not a hard curing resin. Liquid Diamonds and ArtWorks Resin resin are hard curing resins.

Ideally you need to get rid of any scratches seen to the eye, before starting to polish. Work down the grits to around 2500/3000 then start polishing. Make sure scratches from previous grit are gone before moving to next grit. Wet/dry sand paper is ideal for these projects.


You can shape your pieces on a 320 grit disc sander, then 400 grit dry. From there it's all wet sanding 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, etc. Then Zona Papers work great and wet-sanding with them makes resin pieces look like glass. Then polish with a buffer wheel on drill with headlight or choice of polish.

You can polish hard curing resins with a buffing wheel and a polishing compound. Use a cotton buff and polishing compound appropriate for resins. Get the buff spinning, and use it to pick up compound, then press onto the resin piece. You can use a dremel tool or flex shaft for small projects like charms, but a large buff makes quick work of polishing something larger like a pyramid or coaster. Keep the piece moving. You don't want to buff any one area more than a couple of seconds at a time. You also do not want to press the piece into the buff. Let the buff do the work; let it run over the resin piece or charm, but don't use too much pressure. Go over the entire piece as needed. When done clean with mild soap and water, to remove any polishing compound residue.

For a satin finish on wall art,

Use 0000 steel wool and rub in a circular motion. Allow at least 36 hours before rubbing the coating, or it may scratch or mar rather then resulting in a satin finish. A good spray finish to put over this, is Liquitex Soluvar Spray Varnish for the satin finish. Some spray varnishes can react with cured resin, but this one has been used by numerous resin artists successfully. If your painting is going to be hung in a spot where light over high gloss is an issue, this is a possible alternative solution.

Layer Lines in casting pieces:

If you're using a mould, and you are trying to avoid potential layer lines, pour the next layer when your previous one is still a bit tacky (before it cures). Each persons timing will be slightly different depending on a variety of factors (same as above - temperature, humidity, mould shape, volume of resin, and any inclusions). You may need to work with it to find the sweet spot for your location and environment. Example: With a 4-5 cm deep mould, you can wait 6-8 hours between layers, before pouring another layer if it's a very warm room. If it's cooler, you may need to wait about 16 hours or so.

Other Casting tips:

Not our typical recommendation, however some very experienced resin users, advise Liquid Diamonds can be mixed at a ratio of 65% hardener. This might be something you can try if you're finding a film that other methods to reduce have not worked, some found this worked. We do not recommend this ratio for beginners to casting resin, as it is easier to throw your project off balance when inexperienced. Mixing by weight (100:65 resin/hardener). Your pieces will cure faster, harder, than the 2:1 ratio. This mixing procedure is never recommended on large pieces or those above 2". This type of mix can not stay in the mixing cup, and must be used immediately or it can get very hot and cure right in your cup & turn yellow from premature exotherm.

If a piece seems tacky, it usually means the mix was incorrect or the temperature/humidity is not right.

If you've used Liquid Diamonds a lot, and it all of a sudden is not curing the same as it always had before, check the weather or room temperature. It is often the temperature change, especially winter season, and it may need to cure a few days longer or ideally have room temperature increased. The other thing to check is if you've added anything, there is no moisture in it, or you've not exceeded the colourant to resin ratio, and used correct type of colourants.

When adding inclusions, you can try to prevent bubbles being introduced by dipping your inclusions in the resin first, before adding to the mould. Add it wet to the uncured resin in the mould (or to slightly set up resin). This sometimes helps prevent inclusions from adding bubbles.

Clean up of work area & materials and self:

Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol works well to clean uncured resin off tools. if resin ends up on an object or item you did not want it on, & it cured, try vinegar. Or try warming it up then slice off with a utility knife.

Lacquer thinner is not recommended for clean up or with resin. Lighter fluid can be used to remove adhesives from cured resin.

Some artists leave their mixing cups turned sideways, with stir stick on bottom, and if pulled out at right time after cure (early), it often will come out clean. Mixing containers can be cleaned with alcohol in order to use again.

If you get resin on your skin, never use alcohol as it can open the pores up allowing resin to enter into system. Instead use ready made ArtWorks Resin Epoxy Scrub,to wash & exfoliate the resin off safely. It will also leave the area soft and moist instead of dry. If you don’t happen to have our ready made scrub handy, some artists use a mix of coconut or olive oil, with a bit of Dawn dish soap, mixed with sugar or salt for a scrub. That would be safer then alcohol. or mechanics grease scrub like GoJo can help as well. The ArtWorks Resin Epoxy Scrub has successfully removed resin from my hair as well.

After Curing, runoff or marks - potential solutions or repair ideas:

For over runs on thin pieces, a sharp utility knife or leather scissors may work well to trim off the excess resin. Try to do this once cured, but still fresh. If needed a heat source can soften enough to trim, being careful not to dent or leave marks with fingers. Otherwise wait until firmer cure, then use a Dremel. A hot electric utility knife may work too.

On coasters that were used too early, I was able to remove the cup dent marks in it by holding the coaster under the hot water dispenser (which is very hot water), and then carefully and gently rubbing over the indent area. I learned the hot water trick from a friend who often works with a high heat (500F) counter resin.

I have also successfully used very hot water to remove a scuff on a wall art piece. Had rub and work it over with more hot water a few times, but it eventually level out again. These are all at your own risk tips, but might save having to do a new layer, if it works out for you.

Prior to finding ArtWorks Resin or Liquid Diamonds , the resin I used to use, was a soft cure resin, and one piece I made in a shallow mould was left stored on its side, and it warped in a warm room. I submerged the solid resin piece in a sink with very hot water for about 10 minutes. Then removed it, and was able to flatten the warp out. I covered it with parchment paper, then set a heavy object over it until it cooled.

This hot water trick also worked for reshaping on a sculpted resin piece. A customers recently poured ArtWorks resin sculpted bowl platter was not level on the bottom, so I suggested putting very hot water in the bottom of her sink (about 1/2"), then setting the bowl in until it softened enough to carefully press down and flatten the bottom. Once desired flat level was achieved, set it on parchment paper to cool down, then it will remain in that shape. This worked out well in that case too.

I can not guarantee this hot water option will work in all cases, but it is an option that might.

Occasionally I see someone suggest to use a heat gun very carefully over the scratched area to see if it will heat it enough to fuse the scratch. This is typically NOT recommended, as that could singe the piece badly & through the layers.

Mould Over-Pour or excess resin needing removal

If you remove the piece from the mould, & there’s extra resin beyond where it should be, there’s a variety of ways to remove it.

. If it’s just past cure you may be able to carefully slice excess off with a utility knife. If it’s been days since the cure, these two resins being hard curing, will not slice easily anymore, so try using a heat gun to warm the area up a bit where you need to slice off.

. Some people use a dremel to sand off the excess, but then you may need to touch up or recoat the piece if it leaves a dull spot (from sanding) where it is suppose to be shiny. . Another option is to invest in a hot knife. No sanding, no mess, no dull finish. You want the type of electric hot knife that uses replaceable exacto blades. The resin doesn't stick, & when the blade gets dull you swap it out For a sharp one.

Cleaning & Maintenance of resin art & castings

Clean wall art pieces with a soft microfibre or cotton cloth. You can get a microfibre cloth for cleaning, then the microfibre glass & mirror cloth for buffing dry. Works beautifully on resin. Some people will use a glass cleaner like windex or eyeglass cleaner on their resin surfaces. But use soft clothes not paper towels as they may cause slight abrasion marks on the softer resins.

Shipping & Packaging finished pieces:

​If you are shipping your resin pieces, ensure they are cured a minimum of 72 hours prior to packaging. If packaging, never wrap resin pieces directly in bubble wrap or any plastic or hard material that can leave indents if heated during transit.

If shipping wall art, use glassine paper (or parchment or shiny side of freezer paper) up against the resin face, then once the resin is protected with a safe wrap, bubble wrap can be wrapped around the protective paper so it’s not touching any resin surface.


Fisheyes are never due to a resin problem (regardless of resin being used). Formulas of epoxy do not cause fisheyes. Look at what is under the resin for the issue. Fisheyes can be areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away from the substrate, leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. More often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicone, wax or oil (can be body oils from hands too), or other item the resin repels from. The contaminate could often be the type of spray/or medium previously applied, and sometimes it can be the substrate material used reacting with a resin. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye, but then expect the coating might peel away in the future. It should be sanded first, then washed thoroughly, let dry, wipe with alcohol, let dry, then apply another coat. If you repeatedly get fish eye issues, review your surface preparation process carefully.

As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination or the type of material underneath, as the primary cause of fisheyeing. Clean your surface well to avoid the contaminates. There are a variety of different mediums to apply this product on, so it's recommended to do a test piece first before applying your new resin on to your masterpiece when working with new products.

If you often have issues with your finish, here are possible causes to consider:

* Sanding too smoothly (epoxy needs to have something to hold on & attach to).

* Insufficient drying and/or incompatibility with a stain, oil, seal or other product on substrate.

* Not enough epoxy used (it self levels at 1/8").

* Surface contaminates even in the smallest, visually undetectable amounts.

* Ambient temperature either too hot or too cold. Inconsistant temperature throughout cure. Ideal temperature should be between roughly 70-85F.

* Too much heat directly applied directly to epoxy. Over torching, touching flame to epoxy, or burning with heat gun to close for too long.

* Air blowing on epoxy (hot or cold).

* Alcohol spray.

* Body oil, lotions or body sprays, etc. Also do not use air fresheners, aerosol sprays in before or during epoxy use, as they can linger in the air.

* Humidity.

* If using syringes, some contain a lubricant that reacts with resin.

* Remember Krylon is acrylic (which contains water). Rustoleum is an enamel based (solvent). If using a resin that is sensative to humidity, using a waterbased product could cause issues, especially when it it's not 100% cured all the way through (not just dry to touch).

* Do your mix cups have a wax coating on them (sometimes Dixie cups do). The wax can get scratched in to your epoxy mix.

* Some peoples water source can have minerals that can leave marks or residue on items, so a soft wipe with a cotton cloth or micro fiber cloth can help remove potential residues.

Working with epoxy is not cheap, so keeping your environment you create in clean helps you to reduce contamination issues. Schedule deep cleanings in your epoxy work station area/studio, to prevent adding finishing issues to your work.

Pinholes are similar, but often caused by expanding air bubbles curing through the still soft/uncured sections of epoxy.


This can be caused by numerous factors (many can be a similar type causation to those mentioned above (under Fisheye section).

They can be air bubbles that have risen to the surface and popped, but the resin has already dried so much on top, that it can no longer self heal & self level. Taking too long to work with it, & it’s possibly been overworked passed the work time & is now curing.

Too much torching or overheating the resin, or possibly dust or sand left or blown on piece that created air pin hole pockets, or something is on the base, where resin is applied, that doesn’t suit the resin & is causing it to react. Or if the temperature of the room changes while its curing & it’s not warm enough. If working on wood, wood breathes so needs primer/sealer first, and it must be thoroughly cured before working with epoxy over it. Is the room or resin cold, not allowing it to perform the exothermic reaction needed to cure properly. Temperature info is covered above.

If pinholes are in a resin casting piece, was the resin unable to degas (possibly poured too deep)? Were there inclusions (that may have released air inside the resin? Was there anything with moisture on it.... in an inclusion, or on surface or mould or mix cup or tool?


When working with cups/tumblers, the least amount of fuss is best. Just mix, pour, spread evenly, hit with torch, and leave it alone. More fussing with it is often where people start to have troubles.

For High Humidity locations

Liquid Diamonds is a thermoset epoxy, meaning "termperature set/cure". Always cure at temperature above dew point. When temperatures are below, or close to the dew point, condensation occurs and blush will be more frequent. By curing a few degrees above the dew point, you can avoid sticky cures and an unsightly appearance (known as amine blush discussed below). A common practise is to go up at least +3C above the dew point. If this is not possible, fans and heater lamps might be able to be used to prevent moisture interactions upon the epoxy surface. Not close to but in same room, but keep air flow away from curing pieces. Damp Rid (or similar) is a product often used to help rid rooms of excessive humidity as well. Each person finds different solutions work better for them in their unique environment. It may take some trial and error if your location is effected by it.

Film/ Amine Blush / or Weird Texture on Finish

If you experience a sort of "film" on the surface of your cured piece, there could be numerous reasons. Something resembling is often amine blush, but not always.

. Amine blushing is the bi-product of pouring in high humidity. Do not pour on days above 65% humidity. Less then 50% humidity is better, and lower is ideal.

. Too much hardener could cause a film that resembles an oil slick. Make sure you are measuring accurately.

. Not mixing resin enough, or thoroughly mixing it.

. Uneven pigment distribution, when adding pearl, metallic or shimmery micas or other pigments that may not mix well or have not been mixed enough. These can also move after adding heat.

. Direct flame on uncured resin can also be the cause of a film.

. Uneven temperatures during cure can also cause a film.

. Air flow over top of curing pieces can cause wrinkles or weird texture (or moving piece).

. Using too much alcohol can also effect resins negatively, and cause a weird texture on top of the thinner resins. If spritzing alcohol, keep it a very light fine mist. Then do not torch after (which could set fire to it).

Sometimes people see something on top of their finished cured piece like a film, often referred to as amine blush. Without seeing it in person it is difficult for us to be sure. Some of the biggest culprits are using too much additional heat on the resin surface, or theres' too much humidity, or sometimes alcohol or some other contaminant. Try not to torch Liquid Diamonds if possible. Try not to use a heat gun too close or long. Liquid Diamonds is so thin if overheated it can film. If necessary, use a barbeque lighter and keep flame elevated above the resin a few inches to degas. Some people will set pieces on a vibrating surface to help rid of bubbles, and ensure room is quite warm as well. Our Canadian climate can be tricky. Watch for fluctuations in ambient temperatures and humidity during seasonal weather changes. Resin studio area may need additional heat to keep temperature consistent and warm throughout cure process (but keep air flow away from curing pieces).

The only way to get rid of amine blush, is to scrub it with warm soapy water to ensure it is all removed completely, then sand and re-pour resin.

Amine blush can often be described as sticky, oily or waxy like appearance, sometimes clouding or graying, on the surface layer of a cured epoxy, and it can in some cases cause the surface to wrinkle. It manifests itself in more than one way, which can make it difficult to diagnose.

Often times when people experience this, and it happens with numerous resin brands, we can check the weather in the area, and see that humidity is high and there has been a weather change. Some people in higher humidity locations just don't pour year round, or they add de-humidifiers to their studio space, or items like Damp Rid all around the room.

If it's not sticky or wrinkled or amine blush, it may be more of a pigment distribution issue. The pigment may not have been evenly distributed throughout the piece, which sometimes might be apparent when tilting the piece. Sometimes there may be more pigment load on the edges too, helping us to see that is more the culprit. Pigment particles keep moving after your pour, and they can drop or settle just like larger particles can (glitter for example). Also, when you heat the piece after pouring to get rid of bubbles, this causes some mica powders to shift too and collect in strange spots including sometimes patterns on the surface. Some times the metal/pearl or other particles in a pigment can migrate to the surface. If this might be a cause, try mixing the powders longer, but be aware that some micas actually still will leave a metallic ring or pattern in the centre. Resins with longer open time/pot life (the time it stays workable in the mixing cup), can run in to problems when using inclusions like pigment and glitter. With thicker resins it can hold on to bubbles longer and heat up sooner. Try starting with how you mix your resin. warm the resin (or keep warm) and mix gently in a figure 8 movement, scrape sides and bottom, and mix thoroughly again when adding colourants.

Uncured Resin Sections

If your project has reached is cure time, and there are sections that are cured, and sections that are not, it was likely a mixing issue or ratio was off. Sometimes in mixing people miss certain spots on the mix container, bottom or corners of the cup, then scrape that part onto project. It will not cure if it was missed in mixing. If the whole piece is tacky, warm up the room, and give it another day, it may need warmer temperature to cure. Temperature is a big player in cure times as resin is heated to cure.

If it's a tumbler and still tacky well past its usual cure time, unfortunately, it will have to be stripped off. If it is wall art or other resin project, the uncured resin has to be scraped off (dug out), then sanded down to cured resin, then wiped clean and dried thoroughly. Then a new resin coat can be applied.

Epoxy that is not cured will never cure under new epoxy. It can create heat, fumes, air bubbles, the top layer could separate and break away... it is not a good idea to put new resin layers over uncured resin.

Shelf Life/Storage: Store product in a dark but well ventilated area that is above 10C. If product happens to freeze, let it thaw completely, and return to room temperature.

ArtWorks Resin Resin & Liquid Diamonds Casting Resin both have a shelf life of 12 months.unopened and 6 months once opened (ensure lid is replaced tightly). The reason is due to oxidization. When the hardener in any resin is exposed to oxygen, it has a yellowing effect. This does not mean it won't cure. Even once past shelf life, the product still works, and will still cure. But older product may produce more bubbles that are more difficult to eliminate. You may want to just use it up only with darker colours or tinted over wood. ArtWorks Resin is specially developed & engineered to protect your work from the damaging effects of UV, and it has HALS added. Liquid Diamonds also has a UV resistant added to it. Ideally, try to plan to purchase only as much resin as can be used in a 3 month period.

So if you tend to make smaller items, like jewellry, purchase the smaller kit sizes.

Always wipe around the bottle opening of the hardener (especially Liquid Diamonds ), when done so that a powdery substance does not form and drop particles into the bottle when opened again.

Please keep containers tightly sealed when not in use. The hardener (part B of Liquid Diamonds ) is extremely sensitive to moisture. DO NOT allow hardener to remain open when not in use.

Please note that bottles are filled by weight, not volume and will not be filled right to the top.

Yellowing in the bottle: Yellowing in the bottle occurs in most if not all resins, it's from oxidization, (from exposure to oxygen not uv light). It's very exaggerated & much more noticeable in the larger sized containers. Some resin companies use white containers so you don't see (or notice) the yellowing as much as you do with clear containers. Once mixed, it will be clear (if it's within the year shelf life). Some people will add a tiny bit (needle drop) of purple or blue dye/tint to help trick the eye into not seeing the yellow (after mixing the two parts together). It will still cure properly if mixed correctly.

Yellowing of hardener in the bottle can happen for numerous reasons. It can be from UV inhibitors that are an added ingredient, as they are yellow in colour. Yellowing of hardener also is caused by oxidation which happens to every brand. ArtWorks & Liquid Diamonds have the average shelf life, which is 6 months opened, and 12 months unopened. People can & do use epoxy past its shelf life, however if using old resin, try to use coloured tints (rather then whites or clear). When mixed, a yellowed hardener should go clear or pretty close to it if within the year shelf life. It will appear less yellow once on a piece due to the fact it is mixed with the other part (A) resin, which dilutes it, and once spread out it's less observable to the eye. One trick many long time resin users do with yellowed hardener, is some people add a tiny drop of blue or violet tint to the mixed epoxy to trick the eye from seeing the yellow. This allows you to use up resin that has not been used up quickly.

If an unopened hardener has gone slightly yellow before the one year mark, it could be from the plastic (HDPE) bottles, since they do breath a little allowing some oxidation to still occur. This is why epoxy resins have a shelf life. Ideally, we recommend not buying more then you will fully use up within 6 months of purchase.

Frozen Resin

If your resin arrives frozen, it will need to thaw naturally and acclimate to at least 75 derees F before using. This may take a few days. Cold or under-mixed epoxy can create sticky or wet areas on your surface. Cold temperatures will also trap more tiny air bubbles during the mixing which are much more difficult to remove even with torch/heat gun. Once resins are thawed naturally, if they still need a bit of warming, follow directions above for warming resin. Pay careful attention not to warm too much.

Embedding items in resin art or resin castings:

For adding organics into your resin pieces, they must be thoroughly dried out or they will rot and turn brown in the resin.

Some flowers, or stickers or items may go translucent in resin if not pre-sealed with a resin friendly sealer. Some people will use a clear duct tape to protect their sticker from going translucent, and trim it to the edges before adding it to resin. Some people will use a fixative spray (like for a charcoal painting).

Items like feathers, or butterfly wings will lose their colour in resins if not protected first (you damage the physical quality of the wings, and the light can no longer be reflected/refracted. Some of these items need to be laminated, as anything wet will mess up the reflective qualities. Trim the edges as close to item as possible without breaking laminate seal to avoid seeing the lamination lines. Drying them out isn't enough, as the pigment on a butterfly wing or feather is actually a bunch of moveable scales on the wings surface. The colour change happens because the resin forces the scales to lay down ruining the light refractive qualities. To explain feathers/wings colours further, do a web search on "structural coloration".

It's similar to when you completely flatten down micas, they look different then if allowed to stay loose.


ArtWorks Resin Resin Canada has a brand new YouTube channel, and will slowly be adding tutorials when possible.

The develeloper of ArtWorks Resin Epoxy Resin also has a YouTube channel, and is starting to add resin tutorials for ArtWorks Resin Epoxy Resin and Liquid Diamonds Casting Resin. Subscribe to see them as they are posted. Go to YouTube, type in ArtWorks Resin Epoxy Resin for Artists, (or ArtWorks Resin by the Craft Attack), to see their channel.


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Shelf Life & Yellowing in the Bottle

Epoxy Resin is ideally best used within 6 months of purchase. Try not to purchase more then you will use up. Shelf Life/Storage: Store product in a dark but well ventilated area that is above 10C.

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