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iCoat CE4100 HV Casting Epoxy (1:1 ratio)

Updated: Feb 20


iCoat CE4100 HV Casting Epoxy

  • Medium-High Casting Viscosity

  • 1:1 ratio by volume (if preferred to measure by *weight, those details are available below).

  • Pot Life/Work Time 40-50 minutes, dependent on temperature & any added heat in environment.

  • min pour about 1/4” up to about 1” mould and mass dependent

  • Can typically pour two pours/layers in to a mould in a day (morning and evening).

  • Cures to touch in 24 - 30 hours (volume, mass & temperature dependent). Thin layers will take longer.

  • Heat tolerance between 250-300F

  • Shore D hardness at 14 days cure is D63, (at 7 days cure is D58).

  • Available in 3 sizes. (2 gallon, 1 gallon & 32 Oz)


*iCoat CE4100 is a 1:1 ratio measured by volume, casting epoxy.

This resin has a 14% disparity, so If you prefer to measure this product by weight instead, measure your Part B amount first, then multiply that amount by 1.14 to get how much Part A you would need.


To calculate volume needed on projects, please see our resin calculators page for assistance with both top-coating and casting epoxy volume estimates.


iCoat 1:1 ratio Casting Epoxy (CE4100 HV Casting Epoxy), Pour up to 1" thick, Cures to touch in 24 hours. Continues to cure over the next several days.

iCoat CE4100 HV Casting (1:1) Epoxy will produce a crystal clear glass-like finish.

16 fl oz (472ml) covers approximately 30 sq ft.


iCoat CE4100 HV is iCoat's most popular epoxy for floral preservation projects.


iCoat CE4100 HV Casting Epoxy is a medium viscosity resin. To assist in lowering the viscosity for best bubble release, you can warm the bottles in a bucket of hot tap water. Try to find a bucket that will hold the bottle sizes you have upright, without tipping sideways while set in water.

****Using digital thermal infrared thermometer gun, to check the temperature of the epoxy by taking off the cap, and shoot the thermal gun down the neck of the bottle. Temperature should come to 82F, for best results.


If the temperature goes a lot higher, remove from hot water, fry bottle and leave lid off so it can cool down a bit.


Mixing information:

Ideally once Parts A & B are warmed up to 82F, you can mix the two parts (can even mix with a drill). Once it is correct temperature bubbles will not be an issue as the heat will cause them to dissipate. Mix approximately 3-4 minutes or so, depending on volume. Larger volume requires more mixing. Ensure you scrape sides and bottom to incorporate any resin that may be sitting on those edges. Do not spend more time mixing then necessary or you are speeding up pot life. You can tell if it is mixed well enough, by watching if there are striations (string like sections) following your stirring.

Some mix issues can be due to product not being mixed thoroughly, however switching to a 2nd cup once mixed with this resin brand is not suggested or necessary, unless you tend to struggle with mixing issues. Switching to a 2nd cup just uses up valuable pot life and increases chances for pre-mature exotherm with the thicker viscosity epoxies.



Let sit for only 30-40 seconds to pop any bubbles in cup, then pour as quickly and carefully as possible in to your moulds. try to pour closer to the mould instead of from hugh up. Any bubbles introduced should rise to the top where you can use a toothpick or a needle to pop. Or you can use a syringe or pipette to suck up any bubbles.


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If you are working with many moulds at the same time, With iCoat CE4100 HV (medium viscosity), it should ideally be poured in to (all) the moulds it is going into, within 10 minutes of mixing (especially in summer months. You can maybe stretch it to within 15 minutes during winter months).


If you are pouring into many moulds at once, you may need to mix in more manageable batches, so the casting resin does not sit in cups and heat up.



For more floral preservation tip & helpful info, and to know when to add next layer yo prevent overheating of either layer, please check out the blog with relevant info about iCoat CE4100 HV on this blog https://www.artworksresin.ca/post/floral-casting-using-icoat-epoxy-resin



Temperatures are so important when working with epoxy resin... more so then many realize. ....

especially so with floral preservation art.

This blog has more tips if interested, that can possibly help assist results ...

https://www.artworksresin.ca/post/resin-art-temperatures-and-humidity-do-matter




 


IMPORTANT Note: When using iCoat products, this manufacturer strongly advises use of a thermal gun (digital infrared thermometer), for best results using their epoxies. This takes the guesswork out of epoxy temperature, as the temperature of a room is not an effective guide. As you get used to using the thermometer, and you automatically check the temperature each and every time you use epoxy, you will achieve consistent results with your projects.

Where a project requires epoxy warmed for best results, iCoat suggests putting the bottles in a bucket of warmer to hot tap water (that correctly fits the bottles, so they don't tip sideways). Water conducts heat 20x faster then air, so it will work better & faster then a seed matt or other warming options.


Different projects and epoxies may require epoxy be heated more than others, so please refer to manufacturers recommendations.


However, if you are pouring the epoxy into a mould, you will need to ensure you get it to correct temperature to have the most clear bubble free results. But please do not heat higher then recommended or you can cause overheating, which can cause premature yellowing.



Visit image gallery of more products made using iCoat epoxies on our iCoat information page


 


 

MSDS:


REFER TO MSDS BEFORE OPENING

(Available at www.iCoatProducts.com)

 


Note: (PS, for removing bubbles in moulds, I don't recommend using a torch when using silicone moulds. . If it's a surface pour with easy access to top, you can use a bbq lighter and keep flame above project & away from the mould edges. Or, Many artists instead use a small fine misting spray of isopropyl alcohol), for example on lower layers in deeper moulds, (you don't want flame near the mould sides). Try using a pipette or syringe to suck up the bubble. But if you heat the two resin/hardener bottles up prior to mixing (use an infrared thermometer to take guesswork out of it), and keep project in a warm space throughout cure, you may find the bubbles will dissipate all on their own with the iCoat products. Best temperature is between 75F up to 80F for room, and for epoxy heat bottles up to 78-80F, prior to mixing, (except the CE4100 HV you would heat up to 82F). Note: Don't heat higher then suggested, or you risk causing overheating and pre-mature yellowing.


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